Experience the intriguing mix of Russian, Soviet and indigenous Buryat culture in Ulan Ude with this brief guide to one of Siberia's up and coming gems.
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| Tsar Gate, Ulan Ude |
About 100km to the east of Lake Baikal, Ulan Ude is an overnight train ride from the larger and more popular destination of Irkutsk. Founded in 1666 as a fort and trading post called Udinsk, the town grew in importance due to its position on trade routes from China to western Russia and Europe. Over time the construction of long-distance roads and railways led to a boom in population and the city is now the third largest in Siberia, with over 300,000 inhabitants. Renamed as Verkhneudinsk (upper Udinsk) in 1783, the name displayed on the Tsar Gate. The city was named Ulan Ude in 1934, meaning ‘Red Gate’ in Buryat.
The indigenous population were, and are, the Buryats. Far removed from Russians in looks and history, Buryats are one of the ethnic groups that populate Siberia with shamanistic and Buddhist beliefs. Buryats were incorporated into the Russian Empire as it expanded east, fighting and trading with indigenous peoples.
Contradictory Soviet policies recognised indigenous peoples, creating the Buryat republic with Ulan Ude as the capital but meted out repression and persecution.
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| Dogs fighting in front of a Datsan. |
The must-see are the Ivolginsky datsans, about 20km outside the city. Siberia is dotted with temples and Datsans, many closed by the atheist Soviet state. The first Datsan here was built in 1946 on the advice of astrologers, as religious repression in the Soviet Union eased. Buddhism is now one of four official religions in Russia (the others being Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and Islam), and notice boards have congratulatory telegrams from the President of Russia.
At the site, brightly-coloured Datsans sit on the Siberian plateau and a sea of prayer flags decorates trees nearby. Busy in the summer and jam-packed on important dates, arriving early in the morning avoids the crowds and allows you to enjoy the sun rise over the steppe. Monks sing morning prayers in the Datsans (you can sit in the temples during these ceremonies) and early birds walk around the site, spinning prayer wheels.
Although impressive from a distance, much of the design and statues looking look cheap and somewhat tacky for some tastes, but armed with a little background knowledge of the history and importance of the place should keep any negative thoughts at bay. The souvenir stalls are hugely overpriced, but the café opposite the entrance offers basic filling food at a good price.
To get there, go to the bus station in front of the restored Odigitrievsky Cathederal. If your Russian isn’t up to much, ask the bus drivers ‘Datsans?’ and they will direct you to the correct bus. Take the bus to the Ivolginsk (it is the last stop), cost 25 roubles. From here other buses will take you to the Datsans for 15 roubles. Entrance to the complex is 100 roubles, a photography permit 150 roubles, a guided tour 100 roubles per person and leave some small change for other gifts around the temples.
On your return, the Odigitievsky Cathederal is worth a peek. Undergoing restoration following decades of neglect, the inside of the building is certainly impressive although the newness leaves it lacking somewhat compared to other Russian churches, which can be incredibly atmospheric and are always worth popping into. Men should remove hats, women should cover their hair, and photography is generally frowned upon.
The pedestrianised high street leading back to the central square has enough English on the advertising hoardings to make it almost seem like home. The city museum showcasing the history of Ulan Ude, housed in a quaint wooden house built by a rich merchant is a good place to while away half an hour. Most of the text is in Russian, though the staff can give you a side of A4 in English allowing non-Russian speakers to get some enjoyment.
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| Pozi or Buzi ready to go. |
After a busy morning, head for a spot of lunch near the main square. If you want local cuisine, go for ‘buzi’, large meat dumplings more commonly referred to as ‘pozi’ in Russian. There is a technique for eating them – bite a hole in the casing, drink the fluid inside then eat the rest. As in almost all Russian cities, there is fine dining to cater for the most staunch of Western European palates, but with Western prices to match. There are excellent Chinese restaurants in abundance, but if you’re willing to try the smaller cafes, good filling meals can be had for as little as 150 roubles, though you’ll need some Russian to make headway.
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| Wedding party photoshoot at the Lenin head, | Ulan Ude. |
Fed and watered, head to the main square to admire one of Ulan Ude’s biggest tourist draws – the world’s largest Lenin head. Weighing 72 tonnes, the head was made in 1972, exhibited in Paris and then erected in Ulan Ude in front of the city administration, some say to have a none-too-subtle reminder for the indigenous population of who was boss.
With the Soviet Union long gone, the square shows in one view how far Russia has changed - the Russian Tricolour and flag of Buryatia fly above Soviet murals, and at night Lenin is bathed in the light of a giant advertising screen.
A trip to the ‘Ethnographic Museum’ (take bus 37 from the main square) houses interesting examples of different dwellings used over the ages, from nomadic huts, through Buryat homesteads to Old-Believer churches and brightly coloured gates. Believing a slightly different version of Orthodoxy, Old Believers fled east to avoid Tsarist repression in the late 17th century, some going as far as Alaska.
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| Bear at the Ethnographic Museum, Ulan Ude |
Western visitors should be forewarned that the site also houses an appalling zoo, where bears and wild cats pace tiny cages for hours, or lie morosely eyeing a steady stream of human gawpers. Few Russian visitors seem bothered at conditions that would draw heavy criticism in the West.
The bus routes to the museum also pass the city Datsans, essentially a smaller and less tranquil version of the Ivolginsky Datsans, although that shouldn’t stop you calling out ‘Ostanovitye pazhalsta’ (stop please) or 'Datsani pazhalsta' (Datsans please) to get the driver to drop you off so you can have a look around.To get a bus back to the city, stand at the side of the road with your arm out. While cars may stop and offer you a lift, minibuses are cheaper and safer.
For those who want their Soviet history fix, this route passes ‘Glory Square’. Sombre statues lead to a huge and now decrepit staircase with a large Lenin looking purposefully over a city that is leaving him and his ideology behind. The view makes it well worth the effort to get to the top. Look for the unmissable staircase for your cue to get off the bus.
The main victory park is in much better condition. Although thousands of miles from the frontlines, Ulan Ude made an important contribution in manpower and industrial muscle. Buryat faces stare out from the wall of the main memorial, overshadowed by one of the iconic images of Soviet victory – the T34 tank. The view over the city offers yet another cultural contrast, as trams covered in bright advertising pass modern office buildings, with Russian church spires and traditional wooden houses reaching into the distance.
Ulan-Ude is rightly becoming more popular with tourists every summer. For the casual visitor armed with a little background knowledge, Ulan Ude is a fascinating friendly place, and deserves a day or two of anyone’s Trans Siberian trip.
Where to eat: Ulan Ude has enough choice to cater for almost any palate. Eating out can be pricey, but for the adventurous, filling meals with a drink can cost as little as 130 roubles. The food in cheaper establishments can be a little heavy for Western tastes, and service can range from friendly to surly.
Annoyances: Ulan Ude is much like any other large city - don’t wander around alone late at night, and stay away from poorly-lit side streets. Know where you’re going and if you get lost consult a map in a safe place. Keep your documents on you in case of police checks, though given the amount of tourists these are infrequent. Be wary of accepting drinks from strangers, although in general locals are very friendly and inquisitive. Learn at least a few phrases in Russian, English is not widely spoken.
Getting there: Ulan Ude boasts an airport which requires a taxi or bus ride to get to the city. The most popular way to get to the city is by train. The station is 15 minutes walk from the central square.
Where to stay: There are several large and expensive hotels close or on the main square, with English spoken. For a cheaper alternative, several hostels offer dormitory living for around 600 roubles per night such as the Great Baikal Trail hostel http://www.greatbaikaltrail.hostel.com/, which also offers a discount of you are a volunteer on one of the excellent Great Baikal Trail’s projects – a fantastic way to see the lake and make friends. If travelling in the summer book in advance.
Hotels, reviews, views at Trip Advisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g662364-Ulan_Ude_Siberia-Vacations.html
Further information can be found at: http://www.waytorussia.net/Siberia/UlanUde/Accommodation.html
Visas, hotel bookings and other assistance can be found at Real Russia: http://www.realrussia.co.uk/
