Two Days in Ulan Ude

Experience the intriguing mix of Russian, Soviet and indigenous Buryat culture in Ulan Ude with this brief guide to one of Siberia's up and coming gems. 

Tsar Gate, Ulan Ude

About 100km to the east of Lake Baikal, Ulan Ude is an overnight train ride from the larger and more popular destination of Irkutsk. Founded in 1666 as a fort and trading post called Udinsk, the town grew in importance due to its position on trade routes from China to western Russia and Europe. Over time the construction of long-distance roads and railways led to a boom in population and the city is now the third largest in Siberia, with over 300,000 inhabitants. Renamed as Verkhneudinsk (upper Udinsk) in 1783, the name displayed on the Tsar Gate. The city was named Ulan Ude in 1934, meaning ‘Red Gate’ in Buryat.

The indigenous population were, and are, the Buryats. Far removed from Russians in looks and history, Buryats are one of the ethnic groups that populate Siberia with shamanistic and Buddhist beliefs. Buryats were incorporated into the Russian Empire as it expanded east, fighting and trading with indigenous peoples.

Contradictory Soviet policies recognised indigenous peoples, creating the Buryat republic with Ulan Ude as the capital but meted out repression and persecution.

Dogs fighting in front of a Datsan.

The must-see are the Ivolginsky datsans, about 20km outside the city. Siberia is dotted with temples and Datsans, many closed by the atheist Soviet state. The first Datsan here was built in 1946 on the advice of astrologers, as religious repression in the Soviet Union eased. Buddhism is now one of four official religions in Russia (the others being Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and Islam), and notice boards have congratulatory telegrams from the President of Russia.

At the site, brightly-coloured Datsans sit on the Siberian plateau and a sea of prayer flags decorates trees nearby. Busy in the summer and jam-packed on important dates, arriving early in the morning avoids the crowds and allows you to enjoy the sun rise over the steppe. Monks sing morning prayers in the Datsans (you can sit in the temples during these ceremonies) and early birds walk around the site, spinning prayer wheels.

Although impressive from a distance, much of the design and statues looking look cheap and somewhat tacky for some tastes, but armed with a little background knowledge of the history and importance of the place should keep any negative thoughts at bay. The souvenir stalls are hugely overpriced, but the café opposite the entrance offers basic filling food at a good price.

To get there, go to the bus station in front of the restored Odigitrievsky Cathederal. If your Russian isn’t up to much, ask the bus drivers ‘Datsans?’ and they will direct you to the correct bus. Take the bus to the Ivolginsk (it is the last stop), cost 25 roubles. From here other buses will take you to the Datsans for 15 roubles. Entrance to the complex is 100 roubles, a photography permit 150 roubles, a guided tour 100 roubles per person and leave some small change for other gifts around the temples.

On your return, the Odigitievsky Cathederal is worth a peek. Undergoing restoration following decades of neglect, the inside of the building is certainly impressive although the newness leaves it lacking somewhat compared to other Russian churches, which can be incredibly atmospheric and are always worth popping into. Men should remove hats, women  should cover their hair, and photography is generally frowned upon.

The pedestrianised high street leading back to the central square has enough English on the advertising hoardings to make it almost seem like home. The city museum showcasing the history of Ulan Ude, housed in a quaint wooden house built by a rich merchant is a good place to while away half an hour. Most of the text is in Russian, though the staff can give you a side of A4 in English allowing non-Russian speakers to get some enjoyment.

Pozi or Buzi ready to go.

After a busy morning, head for a spot of lunch near the main square. If you want local cuisine, go for ‘buzi’, large meat dumplings more commonly referred to as ‘pozi’ in Russian. There is a technique for eating them – bite a hole in the casing, drink the fluid inside then eat the rest.  As in almost all Russian cities, there is fine dining to cater for the most staunch of Western European palates, but with Western prices to match. There are excellent Chinese restaurants in abundance, but if you’re willing to try the smaller cafes, good filling meals can be had for as little as 150 roubles, though you’ll need some Russian to make headway.

Wedding party photoshoot at the Lenin head,

Ulan Ude.

Fed and watered, head to the main square to admire one of Ulan Ude’s biggest tourist draws – the world’s largest Lenin head. Weighing 72 tonnes, the head was made in 1972, exhibited in Paris and then erected in Ulan Ude in front of the city administration, some say to have a none-too-subtle reminder for the indigenous population of who was boss.

With the Soviet Union long gone, the square shows in one view how far Russia has changed - the Russian Tricolour and flag of Buryatia fly above Soviet murals, and at night Lenin is bathed in the light of a giant advertising screen.

A trip to the ‘Ethnographic  Museum’ (take bus 37 from the main square) houses interesting examples of different dwellings used over the ages, from nomadic huts, through Buryat homesteads to Old-Believer churches and brightly coloured gates. Believing a slightly different version of Orthodoxy, Old Believers fled east to avoid Tsarist repression in the late 17^th century, some going as far as Alaska.

Bear at the Ethnographic Museum, Ulan Ude

Western visitors should be forewarned that the site also houses an appalling zoo, where bears and wild cats pace tiny cages for hours, or lie morosely eyeing a steady stream of human gawpers. Few Russian visitors seem bothered at conditions that would draw heavy criticism in the West. 

The bus routes to the museum also pass the city Datsans, essentially a smaller and less tranquil version of the Ivolginsky Datsans, although that shouldn’t stop you calling out ‘Ostanovitye pazhalsta’ (stop please) or 'Datsani pazhalsta' (Datsans please) to get the driver to drop you off so you can have a look around.To get a bus back to the city, stand at the side of the road with your arm out. While cars may stop and offer you a lift, minibuses are cheaper and safer.

For those who want their Soviet history fix, this route passes ‘Glory Square’.  Sombre statues lead to a huge and now decrepit staircase with a large Lenin looking purposefully over a city that is leaving him and his ideology behind. The view makes it well worth the effort to get to the top. Look for the unmissable staircase for your cue to get off the bus.

The main victory park is in much better condition. Although thousands of miles from the frontlines, Ulan Ude made an important contribution in manpower and industrial muscle. Buryat faces stare out from the wall of the main memorial, overshadowed by one of the iconic images of Soviet victory – the T34 tank.  The view over the city offers yet another cultural contrast, as trams covered in bright advertising pass modern office buildings, with Russian church spires and traditional wooden houses reaching into the distance.

Ulan-Ude is rightly becoming more popular with tourists every summer.  For the casual visitor armed with a little background knowledge, Ulan Ude is a fascinating friendly place, and deserves a day or two of anyone’s Trans Siberian trip.

Where to eat: Ulan Ude has enough choice to cater for almost any palate. Eating out can be pricey, but for the adventurous, filling meals with a drink can cost as little as 130 roubles. The food in cheaper establishments can be a little heavy for Western tastes, and service can range from friendly to surly.

Annoyances: Ulan Ude is much like any other large city - don’t wander around alone late at night, and stay away from poorly-lit side streets. Know where you’re going and if you get lost consult a map in a safe place.  Keep your documents on you in case of police checks, though given the amount of tourists these are infrequent.  Be wary of accepting drinks from strangers, although in general locals are very friendly and inquisitive.  Learn at least a few phrases in Russian, English is not widely spoken.

Getting there: Ulan Ude boasts an airport which requires a taxi or bus ride to get to the city. The most popular way to get to the city is by train. The station is 15 minutes walk from the central square.

Where to stay: There are several large and expensive hotels close or on the main square, with English spoken. For a cheaper alternative, several hostels offer dormitory living for around 600 roubles per night such as the Great Baikal Trail hostel http://www.greatbaikaltrail.hostel.com/, which also offers a discount of you are a volunteer on one of the excellent Great Baikal Trail’s projects – a fantastic way to see the lake and make friends.  If travelling in the summer book in advance.

Hostel list: http://www.hostelplanet.com/findabed.php/hostel-in-Ulan%20Ude-Russia

Hotels, reviews, views at Trip Advisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g662364-Ulan_Ude_Siberia-Vacations.html

Further information can be found at: http://www.waytorussia.net/Siberia/UlanUde/Accommodation.html

Visas, hotel bookings and other assistance can be found at Real Russia: http://www.realrussia.co.uk/

Бухло / Bukhlo. Sampling the Best of Russian Beverages

Befitting a beverage named after one of nature’s best killing machines, ‘White Bear’ beer weighs in at an impressive 7.1% by volume, but is slightly more easy going on the wallet, costing 75rr (about 1.55GBP) for 1.5 litres of the stuff.

The 7.1.% leaves a fairly bitter taste in the mouth for the first glass, which is soon forgotten in as a warm fuzzy feeling takes hold. More detailed tasting notes have been forgotten.

After effects are not too bad (assuming you made it home safe and sound), avoiding the head-wreckingly-bad hangovers that normally accompany anything that comes in a minimum size of 1.5 litres with the word 'Strong' printed on it.

 

'Kruzhka' ratings out of 5

Irkutsk Fires cont...

Following the fire which destroyed the Shanghai market, several smaller fires have broken out over the last few days.

The fires appear to have occured near or in sheds where Chinese traders stored their goods. Yesterday morning Chinese traders were moving large amounts of goods out of storage areas, as fire crews continued to douse flames.

In the evening, several fire damaged containers could be seen from the road, and a large area of the pavement was covered in caps, as a result of the water pumped into the storage areas.

The site of the Shanghai market has already been completely cleared, leaving a large space for development. According to reports on babr.ru, the city mayor has announced a multi-storey car park for the site.

In conversation with a local shop assistant, little sympathy was shown for the traders' plights. 'They will get a new place or go back to China. Who knows who starts the fires? Less talk, longer live'.

Microsoft Reacts to Criticism over Baikal Wave computers

This article from the NY Times is worth a read. In January, officials from either the anti-extremist or anti-corruption (differs depending on who tells the story) branches of Russian law enforcement raided the offices of environmental pressure group 'Baikal Environmental Wave' and confiscated their computers.

Baikal Wave sent copies of their reciepts and certificates to Microsoft as proof that the software was legitimate, in the hope that the company would at least confirm the software was not pirated. However, Microsoft have declined to take a firm stand on this particular case, argueing it is a matter for the Russian court.

Microsoft responded via a lengthy post on the Microsoft Blog. Oddly no references to the story appear anywhere in the press releases or legal news on the main site. Key points are:

'Our first step is clear-cut.  We must accept responsibility and assume accountability for our anti-piracy work, including the good and the bad',

'To prevent non-government organizations from falling victim to nefarious actions taken in the guise of anti-piracy enforcement, Microsoft will create a new unilateral software license for NGOs that will ensure they have free, legal copies of our products',

'For this reason, we’re creating in Russia a new NGO Legal Assistance Program focused specifically on helping NGOs document to the authorities that this new software license proves that they have legal software.'

all of which are to be welcomed.

While Microsoft may change its approach to the problems of NGOs, there is no denying it is a difficult area. Intellectal property rights, copying, pirating, etc. are rife in Russia, and in many places enforcement is almost non-existent.

Several years ago in Moscow it was possible to buy pirate copies of Windows, Excel, and other expensive programs for a few quid a stone's throw from the Kremlin. Policemen could be seen rubbing shoulders with citizens whilst buying pirate DVDs and MP3s in one of the many sprawling markets stuffed with pirate software and music. A quick examination of the cases for entire backcatalogues would reveal a legally registered company producing the disks.

There is no doubt that illegal software use is rife here. If the state and enforcement agencies were to somehow get a hold on it, the rewards for Microsoft would be vast. Until then,  it is a shame that those that go out of their way to do everything right by Microsoft are not supported.

'Shanghai' Market Burns Down

Fairly major event in central Irkutsk last night - one of the markets in the centre of the city burnt down.

The centre of Irkutsk has several blocks of markets, with most traders appearing to be either Chinese or from Former Soviet Republics. The burnt section is called Shanghai, and houses mostly clothes shops run by Chinese traders.

According to local news site Babr.ru, the rumours about the causes of the fire are based around criminal gangs, control of the market and the desire to move Chinese traders out of the centre of the city. Apparently security may have been distracted by fake fights staged nearby.

The article references the semi-legal status of many of the shops, traders and suppliers that work from the market, the stories of criminal gangs controlling the land and the market, and also the city administration's frustration with getting traders to move out. When wandered up to see what was going on, a bulldozer was leveling the place. I am unsure whether a thorough investigation of the cause of the fire had been carried out

I can't say whether any of the allegations are true (although everyone I meet has the same opinion).

What I can vouch for is the reference to 'young men of strong physique blocking reporters, photographers and television crews'. I managed 3 happy snaps before a group of men told me to 'go away' in no uncertain terms.

One Step at a Time - Building the Trail

Unsurprisingly, the busiest time of year for the Great Baikal Trail is Summer. Given the long winters, this is the time when work groups of Russian and international volunteers head out for two weeks at a time to extend and maintain existing trails.

I was fortunate to join a group working in the Pri-Baikal National Park. GBT is working with Rotary International, who have agreed to fund 100 km of trail, from Listvyanka to Peschanaya Bay on the eastern shore of the lake.

Arriving by chartered boat, the first task was to unload and set up camp. Forming a chain from the boat to the shore, bags and equipment were hauled ashore. This was the first introduction to the temperature of Baikal water - so cold that people forming the chain in knee deep water could manage about a minute before needing to warm up and regain sensation in their toes. The extreme depth of the lake keeps the water cold and affects the local climate, with temperatures differing a few months behind nearby Irkutsk.

Once tents were set up and latrines dug, the next two weeks were a rotation of work days on the trail, and 'duty days', with two people responsible for cooking and cleaning the camp. Although the diet was limited, fresh veg and the use of a 'fridge pit' enabled a healthy and filling set of meals. The camp served as a good introduction to some aspects of Russian cuisine, including 'Tushyonka' (tinned meat), 'Sgushyonka' (tinned condensed milk) and 'Varyonka' (boiled condensed milk).

We were blessed with the presence of Natasha, a gifted camp cook who treated us to 'Camp Sushi' (with tinned fish) and 'Ferrero Roche' made from boiled condensed milk and biscuit crumbs.

The working week was broken up with a visit to the 'Skriepers', high rocky outcrops, and a much needed trip to the Banya in Bolshoye Koti, for a good hot wash. Every day there was plenty of free time to chat, walk and even swim in the lake, though the cold limited dips to the bravest or most foolhardy, and every evening games and singing round the camp fire helped to keep spirits high.

During the camp, in addition to over 100 meters of new trail, the group constructed stairs to make a steep descent safer, made signs to direct walkers, and cleared out a garbage pit and did a litter pick along the trail.

Sadly, along the more popular areas of shoreline around this spectacular lake old tin cans, fire pits and bottles are a too frequent sight. Brigadier Svetlana explained that although it is almost impossible to stop people littering, by setting an example GBT hopes to make a start in changing attitudes.

After two weeks, we stood on the shore and welcomed the next group, who will continue our trail up to the Skreipers. Taking out our bags and the rubbish we had collected, we enjoyed an hour in Listvyanka before returning to hot, dusty and busy Irkutsk, a world away from where we started the day.

'Dobrograd' Kids' Camp

Situated on the banks of the Angara about an hour from Svirsk, the camp allowed me to see first hand the efforts to improve the camp and the experience for the children who attend, and some of the difficulties faced by youth groups. I went with Mark, a volunteer from the Baikal Ecological Wave, an NGO working to protect Baikal. We helped with work and gave presentations on ecological issues and volunteering.

As part of an ongoing process, summer camps are clearing, renovating and improving the site. The children generally come from Svirsk, a small town which has several factories. There are some ecological issues in the town with waste and rubbish issue. One of the aims, in addition to giving young people something to do during the holidays, is to alter young people’s attitudes to the environment and the world around them.

The state of the camp offers an insight into state support for community initiatives. Built in the Soviet Union for the Pioneers (one of the Soviet Union’s youth groups), the camp consists of several single-story wooden dorms, each with about 16 rooms. A mess hall, a fairly large kitchen, a shower house, flower beds, small statues and murals all point to what was once a thriving site.

However, following the fall of the Soviet Union the camp has fallen into disrepair. Having not been used for years, and suffering from a lack of funding the camp site is overgrown, with the buildings rotting and falling apart. The faded murals and empty plinths conjure up more the image of decay than a revitalized youth movement. A vandalized Soviet painting inside one building complemented the faded Pioneer mural overlooking the main square.

Happily, the children at the camp proved to be the opposite of their surroundings. Friendly and chatty, their tasks included building steps, clearing grass and weeds from the centre of the camp site, creating flower beds and helping with food preparation.

Mark and I saw the opportunity to use an old swimming pool as a football pitch. Clearing away weeds and overgrowth from the bottom of the pool, the makeshift pitch proved hugely popular with the children in the evening.

Having become used to the foreigners, the children talked about their lives in Svirsk, and some of the problems in the town. Although there were some initial concerns over the lack of showers and the quality of the food, after a ‘clear the air’ meeting the camp improved.

It was impressive to see children of 15 and 16 years old working to improve something for future generations. The adults at the camp gave their time for free. As camp leader Maria Alexandrovna explained to the children “I do this in the hope that my children and their children have somewhere to come to”. It seemed like the kids had the same thoughts too.