Two Days in Ulan Ude

Experience the intriguing mix of Russian, Soviet and indigenous Buryat culture in Ulan Ude with this brief guide to one of Siberia's up and coming gems. 

Tsar Gate, Ulan Ude

About 100km to the east of Lake Baikal, Ulan Ude is an overnight train ride from the larger and more popular destination of Irkutsk. Founded in 1666 as a fort and trading post called Udinsk, the town grew in importance due to its position on trade routes from China to western Russia and Europe. Over time the construction of long-distance roads and railways led to a boom in population and the city is now the third largest in Siberia, with over 300,000 inhabitants. Renamed as Verkhneudinsk (upper Udinsk) in 1783, the name displayed on the Tsar Gate. The city was named Ulan Ude in 1934, meaning ‘Red Gate’ in Buryat.

The indigenous population were, and are, the Buryats. Far removed from Russians in looks and history, Buryats are one of the ethnic groups that populate Siberia with shamanistic and Buddhist beliefs. Buryats were incorporated into the Russian Empire as it expanded east, fighting and trading with indigenous peoples.

Contradictory Soviet policies recognised indigenous peoples, creating the Buryat republic with Ulan Ude as the capital but meted out repression and persecution.

Dogs fighting in front of a Datsan.

The must-see are the Ivolginsky datsans, about 20km outside the city. Siberia is dotted with temples and Datsans, many closed by the atheist Soviet state. The first Datsan here was built in 1946 on the advice of astrologers, as religious repression in the Soviet Union eased. Buddhism is now one of four official religions in Russia (the others being Orthodox Christianity, Judaism and Islam), and notice boards have congratulatory telegrams from the President of Russia.

At the site, brightly-coloured Datsans sit on the Siberian plateau and a sea of prayer flags decorates trees nearby. Busy in the summer and jam-packed on important dates, arriving early in the morning avoids the crowds and allows you to enjoy the sun rise over the steppe. Monks sing morning prayers in the Datsans (you can sit in the temples during these ceremonies) and early birds walk around the site, spinning prayer wheels.

Although impressive from a distance, much of the design and statues looking look cheap and somewhat tacky for some tastes, but armed with a little background knowledge of the history and importance of the place should keep any negative thoughts at bay. The souvenir stalls are hugely overpriced, but the café opposite the entrance offers basic filling food at a good price.

To get there, go to the bus station in front of the restored Odigitrievsky Cathederal. If your Russian isn’t up to much, ask the bus drivers ‘Datsans?’ and they will direct you to the correct bus. Take the bus to the Ivolginsk (it is the last stop), cost 25 roubles. From here other buses will take you to the Datsans for 15 roubles. Entrance to the complex is 100 roubles, a photography permit 150 roubles, a guided tour 100 roubles per person and leave some small change for other gifts around the temples.

On your return, the Odigitievsky Cathederal is worth a peek. Undergoing restoration following decades of neglect, the inside of the building is certainly impressive although the newness leaves it lacking somewhat compared to other Russian churches, which can be incredibly atmospheric and are always worth popping into. Men should remove hats, women  should cover their hair, and photography is generally frowned upon.

The pedestrianised high street leading back to the central square has enough English on the advertising hoardings to make it almost seem like home. The city museum showcasing the history of Ulan Ude, housed in a quaint wooden house built by a rich merchant is a good place to while away half an hour. Most of the text is in Russian, though the staff can give you a side of A4 in English allowing non-Russian speakers to get some enjoyment.

Pozi or Buzi ready to go.

After a busy morning, head for a spot of lunch near the main square. If you want local cuisine, go for ‘buzi’, large meat dumplings more commonly referred to as ‘pozi’ in Russian. There is a technique for eating them – bite a hole in the casing, drink the fluid inside then eat the rest.  As in almost all Russian cities, there is fine dining to cater for the most staunch of Western European palates, but with Western prices to match. There are excellent Chinese restaurants in abundance, but if you’re willing to try the smaller cafes, good filling meals can be had for as little as 150 roubles, though you’ll need some Russian to make headway.

Wedding party photoshoot at the Lenin head,

Ulan Ude.

Fed and watered, head to the main square to admire one of Ulan Ude’s biggest tourist draws – the world’s largest Lenin head. Weighing 72 tonnes, the head was made in 1972, exhibited in Paris and then erected in Ulan Ude in front of the city administration, some say to have a none-too-subtle reminder for the indigenous population of who was boss.

With the Soviet Union long gone, the square shows in one view how far Russia has changed - the Russian Tricolour and flag of Buryatia fly above Soviet murals, and at night Lenin is bathed in the light of a giant advertising screen.

A trip to the ‘Ethnographic  Museum’ (take bus 37 from the main square) houses interesting examples of different dwellings used over the ages, from nomadic huts, through Buryat homesteads to Old-Believer churches and brightly coloured gates. Believing a slightly different version of Orthodoxy, Old Believers fled east to avoid Tsarist repression in the late 17^th century, some going as far as Alaska.

Bear at the Ethnographic Museum, Ulan Ude

Western visitors should be forewarned that the site also houses an appalling zoo, where bears and wild cats pace tiny cages for hours, or lie morosely eyeing a steady stream of human gawpers. Few Russian visitors seem bothered at conditions that would draw heavy criticism in the West. 

The bus routes to the museum also pass the city Datsans, essentially a smaller and less tranquil version of the Ivolginsky Datsans, although that shouldn’t stop you calling out ‘Ostanovitye pazhalsta’ (stop please) or 'Datsani pazhalsta' (Datsans please) to get the driver to drop you off so you can have a look around.To get a bus back to the city, stand at the side of the road with your arm out. While cars may stop and offer you a lift, minibuses are cheaper and safer.

For those who want their Soviet history fix, this route passes ‘Glory Square’.  Sombre statues lead to a huge and now decrepit staircase with a large Lenin looking purposefully over a city that is leaving him and his ideology behind. The view makes it well worth the effort to get to the top. Look for the unmissable staircase for your cue to get off the bus.

The main victory park is in much better condition. Although thousands of miles from the frontlines, Ulan Ude made an important contribution in manpower and industrial muscle. Buryat faces stare out from the wall of the main memorial, overshadowed by one of the iconic images of Soviet victory – the T34 tank.  The view over the city offers yet another cultural contrast, as trams covered in bright advertising pass modern office buildings, with Russian church spires and traditional wooden houses reaching into the distance.

Ulan-Ude is rightly becoming more popular with tourists every summer.  For the casual visitor armed with a little background knowledge, Ulan Ude is a fascinating friendly place, and deserves a day or two of anyone’s Trans Siberian trip.

Where to eat: Ulan Ude has enough choice to cater for almost any palate. Eating out can be pricey, but for the adventurous, filling meals with a drink can cost as little as 130 roubles. The food in cheaper establishments can be a little heavy for Western tastes, and service can range from friendly to surly.

Annoyances: Ulan Ude is much like any other large city - don’t wander around alone late at night, and stay away from poorly-lit side streets. Know where you’re going and if you get lost consult a map in a safe place.  Keep your documents on you in case of police checks, though given the amount of tourists these are infrequent.  Be wary of accepting drinks from strangers, although in general locals are very friendly and inquisitive.  Learn at least a few phrases in Russian, English is not widely spoken.

Getting there: Ulan Ude boasts an airport which requires a taxi or bus ride to get to the city. The most popular way to get to the city is by train. The station is 15 minutes walk from the central square.

Where to stay: There are several large and expensive hotels close or on the main square, with English spoken. For a cheaper alternative, several hostels offer dormitory living for around 600 roubles per night such as the Great Baikal Trail hostel http://www.greatbaikaltrail.hostel.com/, which also offers a discount of you are a volunteer on one of the excellent Great Baikal Trail’s projects – a fantastic way to see the lake and make friends.  If travelling in the summer book in advance.

Hostel list: http://www.hostelplanet.com/findabed.php/hostel-in-Ulan%20Ude-Russia

Hotels, reviews, views at Trip Advisor: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g662364-Ulan_Ude_Siberia-Vacations.html

Further information can be found at: http://www.waytorussia.net/Siberia/UlanUde/Accommodation.html

Visas, hotel bookings and other assistance can be found at Real Russia: http://www.realrussia.co.uk/

Бухло / Bukhlo. Sampling the Best of Russian Beverages

Befitting a beverage named after one of nature’s best killing machines, ‘White Bear’ beer weighs in at an impressive 7.1% by volume, but is slightly more easy going on the wallet, costing 75rr (about 1.55GBP) for 1.5 litres of the stuff.

The 7.1.% leaves a fairly bitter taste in the mouth for the first glass, which is soon forgotten in as a warm fuzzy feeling takes hold. More detailed tasting notes have been forgotten.

After effects are not too bad (assuming you made it home safe and sound), avoiding the head-wreckingly-bad hangovers that normally accompany anything that comes in a minimum size of 1.5 litres with the word 'Strong' printed on it.

 

'Kruzhka' ratings out of 5

Irkutsk Fires cont...

Following the fire which destroyed the Shanghai market, several smaller fires have broken out over the last few days.

The fires appear to have occured near or in sheds where Chinese traders stored their goods. Yesterday morning Chinese traders were moving large amounts of goods out of storage areas, as fire crews continued to douse flames.

In the evening, several fire damaged containers could be seen from the road, and a large area of the pavement was covered in caps, as a result of the water pumped into the storage areas.

The site of the Shanghai market has already been completely cleared, leaving a large space for development. According to reports on babr.ru, the city mayor has announced a multi-storey car park for the site.

In conversation with a local shop assistant, little sympathy was shown for the traders' plights. 'They will get a new place or go back to China. Who knows who starts the fires? Less talk, longer live'.

Microsoft Reacts to Criticism over Baikal Wave computers

This article from the NY Times is worth a read. In January, officials from either the anti-extremist or anti-corruption (differs depending on who tells the story) branches of Russian law enforcement raided the offices of environmental pressure group 'Baikal Environmental Wave' and confiscated their computers.

Baikal Wave sent copies of their reciepts and certificates to Microsoft as proof that the software was legitimate, in the hope that the company would at least confirm the software was not pirated. However, Microsoft have declined to take a firm stand on this particular case, argueing it is a matter for the Russian court.

Microsoft responded via a lengthy post on the Microsoft Blog. Oddly no references to the story appear anywhere in the press releases or legal news on the main site. Key points are:

'Our first step is clear-cut.  We must accept responsibility and assume accountability for our anti-piracy work, including the good and the bad',

'To prevent non-government organizations from falling victim to nefarious actions taken in the guise of anti-piracy enforcement, Microsoft will create a new unilateral software license for NGOs that will ensure they have free, legal copies of our products',

'For this reason, we’re creating in Russia a new NGO Legal Assistance Program focused specifically on helping NGOs document to the authorities that this new software license proves that they have legal software.'

all of which are to be welcomed.

While Microsoft may change its approach to the problems of NGOs, there is no denying it is a difficult area. Intellectal property rights, copying, pirating, etc. are rife in Russia, and in many places enforcement is almost non-existent.

Several years ago in Moscow it was possible to buy pirate copies of Windows, Excel, and other expensive programs for a few quid a stone's throw from the Kremlin. Policemen could be seen rubbing shoulders with citizens whilst buying pirate DVDs and MP3s in one of the many sprawling markets stuffed with pirate software and music. A quick examination of the cases for entire backcatalogues would reveal a legally registered company producing the disks.

There is no doubt that illegal software use is rife here. If the state and enforcement agencies were to somehow get a hold on it, the rewards for Microsoft would be vast. Until then,  it is a shame that those that go out of their way to do everything right by Microsoft are not supported.

'Shanghai' Market Burns Down

Fairly major event in central Irkutsk last night - one of the markets in the centre of the city burnt down.

The centre of Irkutsk has several blocks of markets, with most traders appearing to be either Chinese or from Former Soviet Republics. The burnt section is called Shanghai, and houses mostly clothes shops run by Chinese traders.

According to local news site Babr.ru, the rumours about the causes of the fire are based around criminal gangs, control of the market and the desire to move Chinese traders out of the centre of the city. Apparently security may have been distracted by fake fights staged nearby.

The article references the semi-legal status of many of the shops, traders and suppliers that work from the market, the stories of criminal gangs controlling the land and the market, and also the city administration's frustration with getting traders to move out. When wandered up to see what was going on, a bulldozer was leveling the place. I am unsure whether a thorough investigation of the cause of the fire had been carried out

I can't say whether any of the allegations are true (although everyone I meet has the same opinion).

What I can vouch for is the reference to 'young men of strong physique blocking reporters, photographers and television crews'. I managed 3 happy snaps before a group of men told me to 'go away' in no uncertain terms.

One Step at a Time - Building the Trail

Unsurprisingly, the busiest time of year for the Great Baikal Trail is Summer. Given the long winters, this is the time when work groups of Russian and international volunteers head out for two weeks at a time to extend and maintain existing trails.

I was fortunate to join a group working in the Pri-Baikal National Park. GBT is working with Rotary International, who have agreed to fund 100 km of trail, from Listvyanka to Peschanaya Bay on the eastern shore of the lake.

Arriving by chartered boat, the first task was to unload and set up camp. Forming a chain from the boat to the shore, bags and equipment were hauled ashore. This was the first introduction to the temperature of Baikal water - so cold that people forming the chain in knee deep water could manage about a minute before needing to warm up and regain sensation in their toes. The extreme depth of the lake keeps the water cold and affects the local climate, with temperatures differing a few months behind nearby Irkutsk.

Once tents were set up and latrines dug, the next two weeks were a rotation of work days on the trail, and 'duty days', with two people responsible for cooking and cleaning the camp. Although the diet was limited, fresh veg and the use of a 'fridge pit' enabled a healthy and filling set of meals. The camp served as a good introduction to some aspects of Russian cuisine, including 'Tushyonka' (tinned meat), 'Sgushyonka' (tinned condensed milk) and 'Varyonka' (boiled condensed milk).

We were blessed with the presence of Natasha, a gifted camp cook who treated us to 'Camp Sushi' (with tinned fish) and 'Ferrero Roche' made from boiled condensed milk and biscuit crumbs.

The working week was broken up with a visit to the 'Skriepers', high rocky outcrops, and a much needed trip to the Banya in Bolshoye Koti, for a good hot wash. Every day there was plenty of free time to chat, walk and even swim in the lake, though the cold limited dips to the bravest or most foolhardy, and every evening games and singing round the camp fire helped to keep spirits high.

During the camp, in addition to over 100 meters of new trail, the group constructed stairs to make a steep descent safer, made signs to direct walkers, and cleared out a garbage pit and did a litter pick along the trail.

Sadly, along the more popular areas of shoreline around this spectacular lake old tin cans, fire pits and bottles are a too frequent sight. Brigadier Svetlana explained that although it is almost impossible to stop people littering, by setting an example GBT hopes to make a start in changing attitudes.

After two weeks, we stood on the shore and welcomed the next group, who will continue our trail up to the Skreipers. Taking out our bags and the rubbish we had collected, we enjoyed an hour in Listvyanka before returning to hot, dusty and busy Irkutsk, a world away from where we started the day.

'Dobrograd' Kids' Camp

Situated on the banks of the Angara about an hour from Svirsk, the camp allowed me to see first hand the efforts to improve the camp and the experience for the children who attend, and some of the difficulties faced by youth groups. I went with Mark, a volunteer from the Baikal Ecological Wave, an NGO working to protect Baikal. We helped with work and gave presentations on ecological issues and volunteering.

As part of an ongoing process, summer camps are clearing, renovating and improving the site. The children generally come from Svirsk, a small town which has several factories. There are some ecological issues in the town with waste and rubbish issue. One of the aims, in addition to giving young people something to do during the holidays, is to alter young people’s attitudes to the environment and the world around them.

The state of the camp offers an insight into state support for community initiatives. Built in the Soviet Union for the Pioneers (one of the Soviet Union’s youth groups), the camp consists of several single-story wooden dorms, each with about 16 rooms. A mess hall, a fairly large kitchen, a shower house, flower beds, small statues and murals all point to what was once a thriving site.

However, following the fall of the Soviet Union the camp has fallen into disrepair. Having not been used for years, and suffering from a lack of funding the camp site is overgrown, with the buildings rotting and falling apart. The faded murals and empty plinths conjure up more the image of decay than a revitalized youth movement. A vandalized Soviet painting inside one building complemented the faded Pioneer mural overlooking the main square.

Happily, the children at the camp proved to be the opposite of their surroundings. Friendly and chatty, their tasks included building steps, clearing grass and weeds from the centre of the camp site, creating flower beds and helping with food preparation.

Mark and I saw the opportunity to use an old swimming pool as a football pitch. Clearing away weeds and overgrowth from the bottom of the pool, the makeshift pitch proved hugely popular with the children in the evening.

Having become used to the foreigners, the children talked about their lives in Svirsk, and some of the problems in the town. Although there were some initial concerns over the lack of showers and the quality of the food, after a ‘clear the air’ meeting the camp improved.

It was impressive to see children of 15 and 16 years old working to improve something for future generations. The adults at the camp gave their time for free. As camp leader Maria Alexandrovna explained to the children “I do this in the hope that my children and their children have somewhere to come to”. It seemed like the kids had the same thoughts too.

Building up to the Summer

Rest assured that it's not all car smashes and rain in Siberia.

The organisation I'm here with, the Great Baikal Trail, is trying to build a network of trails around lake Baikal, and every summer camps of international volunteers set off into the wilds to extend the paths.

The aims are not only to make it easier for tourists and hikers to get around, but also to promote sustainable tourism for the benefit of local communities in areas which have great potential to attract tourists but currently suffer from high unemployment.

GBT is preparing for the work this summer, which involves going out on the trails with various experts and national park officials. Along the length of the trail problems are noted, such as bridges damaged by the harsh winter or trees which have fallen across the trail. At the end of the trail the next few summers' work is marked out with red ribbons.

I tagged along on an expedition to Tankhoi to check the trail in the Tankhoi nature reserve. Several hours from Irkutsk in an elektrichka we were trundling around the south of the Lake. After a few hours wait at Sludyanka, which gave us the chance to enjoy a bite to eat and admire the almost mirror-like stillness of the lake, we continued to Tankhoi.

Spending the night in the Tankhoi hostel, early the next morning our group set off. After several miles we came to the trail built by GBT. Wide, flat and clear of obstacles the trail clearly marked a route through what would otherwise be thick undergrowth. Generally following the path of the Osinovka, the trail followed a valley path offering fantastic views through breaks in the trees and the odd chance to rest by the river.

The height of the trail and the trees gave us some shade from the sun, and although ticks were present (remember to check every 40 mins), mosquitoes and other annoyances were minimal.

At the end of the trail half the group, armed with rolls of red ribbon, continued on through the undergrowth to plan the summers' work. Vova, Natasha, Stas, Max and Sveta were in constant discussion about the merits of building here or there, up or down, around or through. Learning interesting tidbits of path building info (when building switchbacks keep the eventual destination out of view to discourage people going directly down the mountainside) on the way, I followed the group through the forest.

After several hours of negotiating steep slopes, the group decided enough planning had been done and headed back down to rejoin the rest. From there a relaxing hike back followed, including crossing a fantastic rope bridge from a particuarly impressive rocky outcrop.

Tired but satisfied, a good meal of soup, salad and bread was enjoyed by all and complemented by a couple of bottles of spirits. A good end to a good day.

Driving Round The Bend

I am the first to loathe lazy 'national stereotyping', but I had an interesting experience which perhaps shed some light on the amount of religious iconography present in most public transport.

Going to meet a volunteer early one morning, I was enjoying a near-traffic-free taxi ride to the airport. The rising sun bathed buildings in a rosy light and traffic lights flashed orange to allow drivers the responsibility of crossing junctions. A collection of crosses swung from the rearview mirror as we sped over the rough roads.

At one crossroads two cars were locked together having found each other, glass scattered across the deserted street. Perhaps one of the drivers was drunk, we speculated as we edged past.

We accelerated away from the accident. As we went over the next crossroads I glanced at the speedo. It was touching 100km/h. I fixed my gaze ahead and decided to concentrate on the icons.

Bringing It All Back Home - An Ecotour of Angarsk

On Saturday June 12 a small group of ecological activists and journalists, led by ecologist and ornithologist Vova (right), got the chance to see the hard end of Russian and Soviet environmental attitudes during a tour of the Industrial Zone of Angarsk.

Getting off the elektrichka (suburban train) an hour outside of Irkutsk, a picture-postcard village of wooden houses and allotments was surrounded by long lines of tankers and wagons loaded with timber, chimney stacks silhouetted against the bright summer sky and palls of black smoke rising into the bright blue sky.

Walking out of the village and past squat Soviet blocks, we made our way to the landfill on the edge of town. Although officially not used for several years, several loads of new rubbish and fresh tyre tracks hinted otherwise.

Years of dumping meant the rubbish was several meters deep. Repeated fires had left everything that wouldn't burn covered in a layer of ash, leaving a landscape littered with bottles. Vova explained that although fires might go out on the surface, underneath the rubbish they can smoulder for months before reigniting, sending more smoke and toxins into the atmosphere.

Picking our way over the sometimes lunar landscape it was possible to look back over a small lake at the village we started our journey in, see birds wheeling in the air and people basking in the sun with fishing rods, and almost forget that you were standing on a rubbish dump.

After crossing the landfill, we made our way past gas-towers to the riverbank of the Angara for a lunch of bread, salad and meats. Crossing fields, the lush greenery of the Siberian summer continued to be juxtaposed with heavy industry on the horizon and more evidence of dumping on the side of the road.

Collapsed concrete buildings looked over mounds of waste, which included a bizzare mass of film spools, hardened in the sun. A few cars, and several small vans went past, with most drivers raising eyebrows at a group of hikers in such a place.

Pipes raised on concrete stilts began to flank the roads, getting denser as we approached silver and sparkling refinery buildings. Angarsk has long been a site of heavy industry and refining oil products. The first refinery was established here in the 1950's, and is one of the largest refineries in Russia.

Following the collapse of the Soviet Union, ownership of the refinery has mirrored the changing relationship between politics and business. At one time owned by Mikhail Khordokovsky's Yukos, (now most famous now for being on the wrong end of Kremlin goodwill), it was later aquired by Rosneft whose chairman is a close ally of current Prime Minister Vladimir Putin.

In contrast to the gleaming refinery buildings, shells of former factories stood empty and decaying, their walls greening with moss and windows a checkerboard of cracked and smashed panes.

Soon we were walking along the main roadway. A mass of raised pipes gleamed in the sunlight, affording some respite from the harsh sun. The smell of gas filled the air. Apart from empty minibuses and the occasional taxi, the well maintained road was empty save for our group. The only people who took and interest in us were the local police, who advised us to stop taking photos of 'strategically important' objects.

We continued on in the shade of the huge pipelines that ran alongside the road. Like a James Bond film everything was on a vast scale, the only colour being the green grass and the yellow signs warning pedestrians to not go any further. The quiet was broken only by occasional conversation and hissing from the pipes.

After what seemed like an age, we came to a tramstop. The babushki (grandmothers) waiting were pleasantly surprised to see a large group with some foreigners in tow. After using the opportunity to remember some English over the noise of nearby building work, they recounted how their used to be plenty of work in the area 'but now, it's all off limits and nothing happens anyway!'

Making our way back to the station and getting the elektrichka back, most of the group napped in the train, while others reflected on their experiences.

What did I think about it? Although I was pleased to have seen such unusual sights, it is not necessary to travel to Angarsk to appreciate the problems and contemplate solutions.

A trip into the English countryside without seeing evidence of fly-tipping is rare. A boat trip up the Thames estuary shows acres of landfill covered by seagulls, the combined result of mass consumption, packaging, but changing these requires huge shifts in popular attitudes and political will.

This is even more exacerbated for the refinery. The products from the refinery are exported to 14 countries. Products and fuels from Angarsk could be heating and moving England as you read this.

Progress Comes in a Thousand Tiny Steps - Port Baikal

As part of my placement, other volunteers and I have various 'training' obligations. Led by Natasha, Svetlana, Dmitry, Sara, Olga and myself headed to Port Baikal, at the mouth of the Angara river, the only outlet from lake Baikal.

A minibus ride from Irkutsk to Listvyanka allowed a short stop in the Tal'tsii Museum, with examples of Evenk (indigenous people) tents, food preparation and burial places, with more recent Russian forts and wooden houses, including a bizarre 'iron-mongers-house', complete with iron fish. Odd.

From the museum we headed onto Listvyanka, a busy tourist spot on the Northern side of the mouth of the Angara, with modern hotels, lots of people and the omni-present loudspeakers pumping pop music out onto the street.

From there a short trip on a ferry brought us to Port Baikal on the opposite side of the river mouth. With no major transport links, apart from a recently opened circa-Baikal railway line, the town has not had the influx of cash that has led to Listvyanka's development. Rusting ships lie on the shore, or are moored with seemingly no where to go.

Bashed up cars and motorcycles spewing out white smoke rattled past, picking up some passengers, the rest making their way on foot from the ferry to the town. Staying in a lovely but empty B&B, the owner assured us that in the summer business was booming. Workmen and the stacks of wood in the yard pointed to further development ready to go ahead.

Following the training, we went on a short walk up the train line along the edge of the lake. The calm beauty of the lake, with the mountains on the far side and a squall making its way over the water further south was in contrast to the litter and decaying infrastructure left on the shoreline. Years of uninvestment followed by a mini tourism boom means plastic bags and crisp packets wash up alongside the rotting gangways and rusting sheds.

The following day brought grey skies, rain and wind. Heading back, various items were used as improvised headgear against the rain and the wind. (From left - Sveta, Natasha, Dmitry, Olga)

In addition to the decaying infrastructure, what made the greatest impression was the kids. By day playing in a small playground, when we returned from our walk at night kids looking about 10 years old were hanging around smoking. People loitering and drinking were ever-present, the rain and wind on Sunday being no deterrent. 'What is there to do except drink?' is a frequent refrain. How to improve the situation? These are complex, difficult areas, requiring changes in Russian society and state that could take generations.

There is a lot of work to do here, but how to change it? The GBT run educational groups, trying to raise health and ecological awareness. On our walk a little girl ran up to one of our group, reminiscing about the workshop she had attended. A small success, but vital.

Geting There

Hello! Or in the lingo, Privyet!

I am a 20-something English guy on a 6 month placement with the Great Baikal Trail based around Irkutsk, Siberia. I lived in Moscow for two academic years some time ago and have longed to return to do something a bit different.

This blog will be random updates, musings, photo's and such like when I get the chance.

Seems sensible to start with getting here. Given that my stipend comes via eco-friendly streams, planes were a no-no, meaning a two-and-a-bit-knee-jolting day coach journey from London to Riga. The highlight was taking a boat from Dover to Dunkirk allowing me, in classic fashion, to wave goodbye to the White Cliffs, glowing red through the mist.

A day in Riga allowing an 'alternative' tour of the city preceeded an overnight train to Moscow with interesting companions. Taking an 'Obshche' wagon, it essentially meant sleep where you can, if you can, but the conversation and the excitement of crossing the border canclled out any discomfort.

A night with fantastic friends in Moscow, who not only helped me get the ticket to Irkutsk but fed, watered, and helped me out after HSBC froze my card, preceeded four nights on the train.

I won't bore you with the details of Russian trains, given the acres of coverage you can find elsewhere, suffice to say all the smells and sounds came flooding back - the swaying of the carriage, the endless tea drinking, the clunk-click of the wheels, the stuffy heat of the carriage.

As the train continued deeper in Siberia the smell of smoked fish, bought from platforms en-route became more common, along with the smell of 40+ people with no access to a shower. Conversations were stilted, as people ran out of topics. The 'provodnitsa', who looks after the carriage, kept an eye on events, scolding passengers who got out of line. Most memorably I had the pleasure of meeting Nikolai Nikolaevich (sitting on the left), a geophysist from Novosibirsk. As calm as it is possible for a man to be, he patiently went through various topics including his travels (extensive), his family (scattered) and the nature of the earth's magnetic field (complicated).

Several thousand miles and 8 timezones later I was glad to roll into Irkutsk at the un-Godly hour of 3.30am, to be met by a beaming Sveta from the Great Baikal Trail, who looked and smelt far fresher than me.