Бухло / Bukhlo. Sampling the Best of Russian Beverages

Befitting a beverage named after one of nature’s best killing machines, ‘White Bear’ beer weighs in at an impressive 7.1% by volume, but is slightly more easy going on the wallet, costing 75rr (about 1.55GBP) for 1.5 litres of the stuff.

The 7.1.% leaves a fairly bitter taste in the mouth for the first glass, which is soon forgotten in as a warm fuzzy feeling takes hold. More detailed tasting notes have been forgotten.

After effects are not too bad (assuming you made it home safe and sound), avoiding the head-wreckingly-bad hangovers that normally accompany anything that comes in a minimum size of 1.5 litres with the word 'Strong' printed on it.

 

'Kruzhka' ratings out of 5

Irkutsk Fires cont...

Following the fire which destroyed the Shanghai market, several smaller fires have broken out over the last few days.

The fires appear to have occured near or in sheds where Chinese traders stored their goods. Yesterday morning Chinese traders were moving large amounts of goods out of storage areas, as fire crews continued to douse flames.

In the evening, several fire damaged containers could be seen from the road, and a large area of the pavement was covered in caps, as a result of the water pumped into the storage areas.

The site of the Shanghai market has already been completely cleared, leaving a large space for development. According to reports on babr.ru, the city mayor has announced a multi-storey car park for the site.

In conversation with a local shop assistant, little sympathy was shown for the traders' plights. 'They will get a new place or go back to China. Who knows who starts the fires? Less talk, longer live'.

Microsoft Reacts to Criticism over Baikal Wave computers

This article from the NY Times is worth a read. In January, officials from either the anti-extremist or anti-corruption (differs depending on who tells the story) branches of Russian law enforcement raided the offices of environmental pressure group 'Baikal Environmental Wave' and confiscated their computers.

Baikal Wave sent copies of their reciepts and certificates to Microsoft as proof that the software was legitimate, in the hope that the company would at least confirm the software was not pirated. However, Microsoft have declined to take a firm stand on this particular case, argueing it is a matter for the Russian court.

Microsoft responded via a lengthy post on the Microsoft Blog. Oddly no references to the story appear anywhere in the press releases or legal news on the main site. Key points are:

'Our first step is clear-cut.  We must accept responsibility and assume accountability for our anti-piracy work, including the good and the bad',

'To prevent non-government organizations from falling victim to nefarious actions taken in the guise of anti-piracy enforcement, Microsoft will create a new unilateral software license for NGOs that will ensure they have free, legal copies of our products',

'For this reason, we’re creating in Russia a new NGO Legal Assistance Program focused specifically on helping NGOs document to the authorities that this new software license proves that they have legal software.'

all of which are to be welcomed.

While Microsoft may change its approach to the problems of NGOs, there is no denying it is a difficult area. Intellectal property rights, copying, pirating, etc. are rife in Russia, and in many places enforcement is almost non-existent.

Several years ago in Moscow it was possible to buy pirate copies of Windows, Excel, and other expensive programs for a few quid a stone's throw from the Kremlin. Policemen could be seen rubbing shoulders with citizens whilst buying pirate DVDs and MP3s in one of the many sprawling markets stuffed with pirate software and music. A quick examination of the cases for entire backcatalogues would reveal a legally registered company producing the disks.

There is no doubt that illegal software use is rife here. If the state and enforcement agencies were to somehow get a hold on it, the rewards for Microsoft would be vast. Until then,  it is a shame that those that go out of their way to do everything right by Microsoft are not supported.

'Shanghai' Market Burns Down

Fairly major event in central Irkutsk last night - one of the markets in the centre of the city burnt down.

The centre of Irkutsk has several blocks of markets, with most traders appearing to be either Chinese or from Former Soviet Republics. The burnt section is called Shanghai, and houses mostly clothes shops run by Chinese traders.

According to local news site Babr.ru, the rumours about the causes of the fire are based around criminal gangs, control of the market and the desire to move Chinese traders out of the centre of the city. Apparently security may have been distracted by fake fights staged nearby.

The article references the semi-legal status of many of the shops, traders and suppliers that work from the market, the stories of criminal gangs controlling the land and the market, and also the city administration's frustration with getting traders to move out. When wandered up to see what was going on, a bulldozer was leveling the place. I am unsure whether a thorough investigation of the cause of the fire had been carried out

I can't say whether any of the allegations are true (although everyone I meet has the same opinion).

What I can vouch for is the reference to 'young men of strong physique blocking reporters, photographers and television crews'. I managed 3 happy snaps before a group of men told me to 'go away' in no uncertain terms.

One Step at a Time - Building the Trail

Unsurprisingly, the busiest time of year for the Great Baikal Trail is Summer. Given the long winters, this is the time when work groups of Russian and international volunteers head out for two weeks at a time to extend and maintain existing trails.

I was fortunate to join a group working in the Pri-Baikal National Park. GBT is working with Rotary International, who have agreed to fund 100 km of trail, from Listvyanka to Peschanaya Bay on the eastern shore of the lake.

Arriving by chartered boat, the first task was to unload and set up camp. Forming a chain from the boat to the shore, bags and equipment were hauled ashore. This was the first introduction to the temperature of Baikal water - so cold that people forming the chain in knee deep water could manage about a minute before needing to warm up and regain sensation in their toes. The extreme depth of the lake keeps the water cold and affects the local climate, with temperatures differing a few months behind nearby Irkutsk.

Once tents were set up and latrines dug, the next two weeks were a rotation of work days on the trail, and 'duty days', with two people responsible for cooking and cleaning the camp. Although the diet was limited, fresh veg and the use of a 'fridge pit' enabled a healthy and filling set of meals. The camp served as a good introduction to some aspects of Russian cuisine, including 'Tushyonka' (tinned meat), 'Sgushyonka' (tinned condensed milk) and 'Varyonka' (boiled condensed milk).

We were blessed with the presence of Natasha, a gifted camp cook who treated us to 'Camp Sushi' (with tinned fish) and 'Ferrero Roche' made from boiled condensed milk and biscuit crumbs.

The working week was broken up with a visit to the 'Skriepers', high rocky outcrops, and a much needed trip to the Banya in Bolshoye Koti, for a good hot wash. Every day there was plenty of free time to chat, walk and even swim in the lake, though the cold limited dips to the bravest or most foolhardy, and every evening games and singing round the camp fire helped to keep spirits high.

During the camp, in addition to over 100 meters of new trail, the group constructed stairs to make a steep descent safer, made signs to direct walkers, and cleared out a garbage pit and did a litter pick along the trail.

Sadly, along the more popular areas of shoreline around this spectacular lake old tin cans, fire pits and bottles are a too frequent sight. Brigadier Svetlana explained that although it is almost impossible to stop people littering, by setting an example GBT hopes to make a start in changing attitudes.

After two weeks, we stood on the shore and welcomed the next group, who will continue our trail up to the Skreipers. Taking out our bags and the rubbish we had collected, we enjoyed an hour in Listvyanka before returning to hot, dusty and busy Irkutsk, a world away from where we started the day.

'Dobrograd' Kids' Camp

Situated on the banks of the Angara about an hour from Svirsk, the camp allowed me to see first hand the efforts to improve the camp and the experience for the children who attend, and some of the difficulties faced by youth groups. I went with Mark, a volunteer from the Baikal Ecological Wave, an NGO working to protect Baikal. We helped with work and gave presentations on ecological issues and volunteering.

As part of an ongoing process, summer camps are clearing, renovating and improving the site. The children generally come from Svirsk, a small town which has several factories. There are some ecological issues in the town with waste and rubbish issue. One of the aims, in addition to giving young people something to do during the holidays, is to alter young people’s attitudes to the environment and the world around them.

The state of the camp offers an insight into state support for community initiatives. Built in the Soviet Union for the Pioneers (one of the Soviet Union’s youth groups), the camp consists of several single-story wooden dorms, each with about 16 rooms. A mess hall, a fairly large kitchen, a shower house, flower beds, small statues and murals all point to what was once a thriving site.

However, following the fall of the Soviet Union the camp has fallen into disrepair. Having not been used for years, and suffering from a lack of funding the camp site is overgrown, with the buildings rotting and falling apart. The faded murals and empty plinths conjure up more the image of decay than a revitalized youth movement. A vandalized Soviet painting inside one building complemented the faded Pioneer mural overlooking the main square.

Happily, the children at the camp proved to be the opposite of their surroundings. Friendly and chatty, their tasks included building steps, clearing grass and weeds from the centre of the camp site, creating flower beds and helping with food preparation.

Mark and I saw the opportunity to use an old swimming pool as a football pitch. Clearing away weeds and overgrowth from the bottom of the pool, the makeshift pitch proved hugely popular with the children in the evening.

Having become used to the foreigners, the children talked about their lives in Svirsk, and some of the problems in the town. Although there were some initial concerns over the lack of showers and the quality of the food, after a ‘clear the air’ meeting the camp improved.

It was impressive to see children of 15 and 16 years old working to improve something for future generations. The adults at the camp gave their time for free. As camp leader Maria Alexandrovna explained to the children “I do this in the hope that my children and their children have somewhere to come to”. It seemed like the kids had the same thoughts too.

Building up to the Summer

Rest assured that it's not all car smashes and rain in Siberia.

The organisation I'm here with, the Great Baikal Trail, is trying to build a network of trails around lake Baikal, and every summer camps of international volunteers set off into the wilds to extend the paths.

The aims are not only to make it easier for tourists and hikers to get around, but also to promote sustainable tourism for the benefit of local communities in areas which have great potential to attract tourists but currently suffer from high unemployment.

GBT is preparing for the work this summer, which involves going out on the trails with various experts and national park officials. Along the length of the trail problems are noted, such as bridges damaged by the harsh winter or trees which have fallen across the trail. At the end of the trail the next few summers' work is marked out with red ribbons.

I tagged along on an expedition to Tankhoi to check the trail in the Tankhoi nature reserve. Several hours from Irkutsk in an elektrichka we were trundling around the south of the Lake. After a few hours wait at Sludyanka, which gave us the chance to enjoy a bite to eat and admire the almost mirror-like stillness of the lake, we continued to Tankhoi.

Spending the night in the Tankhoi hostel, early the next morning our group set off. After several miles we came to the trail built by GBT. Wide, flat and clear of obstacles the trail clearly marked a route through what would otherwise be thick undergrowth. Generally following the path of the Osinovka, the trail followed a valley path offering fantastic views through breaks in the trees and the odd chance to rest by the river.

The height of the trail and the trees gave us some shade from the sun, and although ticks were present (remember to check every 40 mins), mosquitoes and other annoyances were minimal.

At the end of the trail half the group, armed with rolls of red ribbon, continued on through the undergrowth to plan the summers' work. Vova, Natasha, Stas, Max and Sveta were in constant discussion about the merits of building here or there, up or down, around or through. Learning interesting tidbits of path building info (when building switchbacks keep the eventual destination out of view to discourage people going directly down the mountainside) on the way, I followed the group through the forest.

After several hours of negotiating steep slopes, the group decided enough planning had been done and headed back down to rejoin the rest. From there a relaxing hike back followed, including crossing a fantastic rope bridge from a particuarly impressive rocky outcrop.

Tired but satisfied, a good meal of soup, salad and bread was enjoyed by all and complemented by a couple of bottles of spirits. A good end to a good day.