One Step at a Time - Building the Trail

Unsurprisingly, the busiest time of year for the Great Baikal Trail is Summer. Given the long winters, this is the time when work groups of Russian and international volunteers head out for two weeks at a time to extend and maintain existing trails.

I was fortunate to join a group working in the Pri-Baikal National Park. GBT is working with Rotary International, who have agreed to fund 100 km of trail, from Listvyanka to Peschanaya Bay on the eastern shore of the lake.

Arriving by chartered boat, the first task was to unload and set up camp. Forming a chain from the boat to the shore, bags and equipment were hauled ashore. This was the first introduction to the temperature of Baikal water - so cold that people forming the chain in knee deep water could manage about a minute before needing to warm up and regain sensation in their toes. The extreme depth of the lake keeps the water cold and affects the local climate, with temperatures differing a few months behind nearby Irkutsk.

Once tents were set up and latrines dug, the next two weeks were a rotation of work days on the trail, and 'duty days', with two people responsible for cooking and cleaning the camp. Although the diet was limited, fresh veg and the use of a 'fridge pit' enabled a healthy and filling set of meals. The camp served as a good introduction to some aspects of Russian cuisine, including 'Tushyonka' (tinned meat), 'Sgushyonka' (tinned condensed milk) and 'Varyonka' (boiled condensed milk).

We were blessed with the presence of Natasha, a gifted camp cook who treated us to 'Camp Sushi' (with tinned fish) and 'Ferrero Roche' made from boiled condensed milk and biscuit crumbs.

The working week was broken up with a visit to the 'Skriepers', high rocky outcrops, and a much needed trip to the Banya in Bolshoye Koti, for a good hot wash. Every day there was plenty of free time to chat, walk and even swim in the lake, though the cold limited dips to the bravest or most foolhardy, and every evening games and singing round the camp fire helped to keep spirits high.

During the camp, in addition to over 100 meters of new trail, the group constructed stairs to make a steep descent safer, made signs to direct walkers, and cleared out a garbage pit and did a litter pick along the trail.

Sadly, along the more popular areas of shoreline around this spectacular lake old tin cans, fire pits and bottles are a too frequent sight. Brigadier Svetlana explained that although it is almost impossible to stop people littering, by setting an example GBT hopes to make a start in changing attitudes.

After two weeks, we stood on the shore and welcomed the next group, who will continue our trail up to the Skreipers. Taking out our bags and the rubbish we had collected, we enjoyed an hour in Listvyanka before returning to hot, dusty and busy Irkutsk, a world away from where we started the day.